2008 Jean-Claude Boisset 'Les Ursulines' Bourgogne Rouge

Boisset Family Estates is the largest wine company in France, they have grown rapidly and done well but quality was often not a priority in this strategy (think Dan Ackroyd Estates and French Rabbit) and the name is invariably sneered at in Burgundy.  A little unhappy about being dissed in their backyard, the family decided to re-invest in the 'father' brand of Jean-Claude Boisset. They took some of the best vineyard parcels in their collection and added Gregory Patriat, a blond, young, energetic and modern winemaker with very traditional ideas on fermentation and bio-dynamism from Domaine Leroy.

I got a mixed case of 2008 recently and wanted to start slow so I picked the '08 Les Ursulines Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France - $19).  My expectations were limited I have to say but on opening I was very pleasantly surprised.  The nose was light but very expressive, all red and black cherries with a little star anise-infused bacon fat.  The palate was high in acid (very 2008) and light in body at 12.5% alcohol.  But it flowed nicely and had some decent red fruit in there and worked much better with food.  All in all for $20 (!!) you won't do much better from the region.

2009 RK Beechworth Chardonnay

Another in the Vintage Cellars line of 'Gun Winemakers do Chardy'.  This one the '09 RK Beechworth Chardonnay (Beechworth, VIC - $40) from Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda renown.  I was looking forward to this, my church mouse winemaker's salary making Giaconda purchases something of a rarity, what with children to feed etc..

The nose has that intense struck match, gunpowder flavoured yoghurt smeared over spiced, grilled pineapples character that you so often get in good white burgundy.  The palate is very full, but beautifully structured with acid cutting through from the start and reappearing to tidily wrap up the finish.  The flavours are almost inconsequential so much time is spent enjoying the structure but there is juicy citrus squeezed stone fruits in there.  The finish is long and fine with only a slight reduction in the intensity stopping this from being a truly great wine.

If this is an average day for Mr K then the asking price of Giaconda is looking to be very good value indeed.  Sorry kids.

Bowe Lees, yes please.

Alternative varieties.  The words generate about as much excitement in me as the phrase 'boutique winery'.  It is not that I don't like either of these things per se, both are of great interest to me.  It's just that they have become so heavily flogged as lazy 'point of difference' phrases that they instantly bring up the marketing yawn filter.

Which brings me to a wonderful wine I had recently from a boutique winery specialising in alternative varieties.   Fortunately the folk at Bowe Lees use none of these phrases.  In fact, they seem to be either a) painfully shy, b) hiding from the authorities or c) anti-marketing with nary a reference on Google, no 'interesting' back label, no website, no blog, not even a Twitter account - what is wrong with these people?  Not much at all, judging by the '08 Bowe Lees 'Xylem' Tannat (Adelaide Hills, SA - $30).  Fabulously glossy and dark in the glass this throws out great wafts of dark fruits and ripe leaf notes.  Yes, leaf - yes, good.  Very good.  The palate has the trademark solid tannin structure of the variety but all is ripe, layered and gently coated with fruit - think of an inverted Cherry Ripe.  Finish continues the excellent work and ensures this wine gets a definite 'sad when the bottle is empty' rating.

2009 Ballewindi Chardonnay

I recently ordered in a mixed dozen from Vintage Cellars - which was a first - good discount, reasonably timely delivery and they send to PO boxes which is borderline essential.  The inspiration was an article on Chardonnay on the wonderful Drinkster blog of Philip White.  I was intrigued by the chance to get Kinzbrunner-created chardonnay at terrestial prices and also see what famous winemakers do in their spare time for corporate retail giants.

I'm pleased to say the '09 Ballewindi Chardonnay (Mornington Peninsula, VIC - $28) by Sandro Mosele was a very smart introduction to the range.  The nose was set up with ripe fruit in the peachy scale but with some slatey character there too.  The palate was very well put together, tight and just slightly unctuous but with a classically grown-up mealy dry finish.  Roll on Rick.