Bowe Lees, yes please.

Alternative varieties.  The words generate about as much excitement in me as the phrase 'boutique winery'.  It is not that I don't like either of these things per se, both are of great interest to me.  It's just that they have become so heavily flogged as lazy 'point of difference' phrases that they instantly bring up the marketing yawn filter.

Which brings me to a wonderful wine I had recently from a boutique winery specialising in alternative varieties.   Fortunately the folk at Bowe Lees use none of these phrases.  In fact, they seem to be either a) painfully shy, b) hiding from the authorities or c) anti-marketing with nary a reference on Google, no 'interesting' back label, no website, no blog, not even a Twitter account - what is wrong with these people?  Not much at all, judging by the '08 Bowe Lees 'Xylem' Tannat (Adelaide Hills, SA - $30).  Fabulously glossy and dark in the glass this throws out great wafts of dark fruits and ripe leaf notes.  Yes, leaf - yes, good.  Very good.  The palate has the trademark solid tannin structure of the variety but all is ripe, layered and gently coated with fruit - think of an inverted Cherry Ripe.  Finish continues the excellent work and ensures this wine gets a definite 'sad when the bottle is empty' rating.